Por dentro do Rio
Alda Maria Doces Portugueses: segredinho em Santa Teresa
Depois que descobri esse endereço em Santa Teresa, nunca mais o perdi de vista. Já compartilhei com alguns amigos de fora da cidade e, acreditem, com cariocas que jamais tinham ouvido falar dele… Trata-se de uma casinha insuspeita onde se esconde uma doceira de mão cheia. Alda Maria é de Pelotas e nunca pisou em Portugal – quase não acreditei quando me contou isso numa das minhas muitas visitas –, mas de suas mãos saem alguns dos melhores doces portugueses que se podem encontrar nessa cidade. Coisa difícil, por mais que não pareça. Há quem pense que a doçaria portuguesa é um tanto banal, nada além de ovos e açúcar… Mas o delicado equilíbrio que faz a diferença entre doces pesados e açucarados e as pequena jóias que saem dos manuais da doçaria conventual é algo difícil de alcançar. Pois, Alda, mesmo sem jamais ter estado na terrinha, executa algumas das famosas receitas com maestria.
Numa pequena e antiga cristaleira, na ante-sala de sua casa na rua Almirante Alexandrino (é só cruzar o portal de azulejos, subir as escadinhas e bater na porta), Alda expõe, ao lado de doces tradicionais de Pelotas, Toucinhos do Céu, Fatias de Braga, Pastéis de Santa Clara, Dom Rodrigos entre outras pérolas. Tudo feito com ovos caipiras e açúcar orgânico. Se alguém duvidar, basta olhar o dourado inigualável de seus ovos moles, que, aliás, estão entre os meus favoritos.
Confesso que pensei duas vezes antes de divulgar aqui esse endereço, que guardo com um certo ciúme, se me entendem… Então, aproveitem, tomem nota (como diria minha bisavó portuguesa), mas não espalhem…
P.S. Quem, por curiosidade, acessar o website da doceira, não se assuste com as fotos horrendas e o layout cafona. Eles não fazem justiça aos doces portugueses de Alda.
Alda Maria Doces Portugueses – Rua Almirante Alexandrino 1116
www.aldadocesportugueses.com.br
As atualizações desse blog também estão no meu twitter
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