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Izan Petterle

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Festas juninas em São Luís do Maranhão

por Izan Petterle em 26 de junho de 2012

Encontro-me no Centro Histórico de São Luís, no Maranhão. O local tem cerca de 4 mil imóveis tombados pela União, o traçado urbano é o mesmo do século 18 e os postes de iluminação foram substituídos por lampiões. É uma área tombada pela Unesco, com cerca de 60 hectares de lindas construções coloniais.

Escolhi esse cenário para documentar um dos mais ricos patrimônios imateriais do país, a riqueza cultural das festas juninas maranhenses. Aqui a diversidade de som e de manifestações culturais é marcada, principalmente, pelos ritmos do Tambor de Crioula e do tradicional bumba-meu-boi.

Só em São Luís existem cerca de 100 grupos de bumba-meu-boi, cada um com características próprias que se manifestam nas roupas, nos instrumentos, na cadência da música e nas coreografias. De acordo com a Wikipédia, a festa do bumba-meu-boi surgiu no Nordeste do país, mais especificamente no estado do Piauí, pois a região foi povoada por vaqueiros vindos da Bahia em busca de novas pastagens para o gado. Ainda hoje a figura do vaqueiro é marcante e faz parte da cultura piauiense, além de ser uma personagem típica no estado.

Mas foi no Estado do Maranhão que o bumba-meu-boi foi mais popularizado e exportado para o Amazonas com o nome de boi-bumbá. O enredo resgata as relações sociais e econômicas nordestinas do período colonial. Segundo a lenda, a história surgiu quando Pai Francisco matou o boi de estimação de seu senhor para satisfazer o desejo de sua esposa grávida, Mãe Catirina, que queria comer língua. Quando descobre o sumiço do animal, o senhor fica furioso e, após investigar entre seus escravos e índios, descobre o autor do crime e obriga Pai Francisco a trazer o boi de volta. O boi ressucita e todos participam de uma enorme festa para comemorar o milagre.

Esse trabalho é refresco para meus cansados olhos. É sempre muito bom ter acesso a esse enorme caldeirão multicultural do Maranhão. Umas das lições que tiro dessa história é ver como pode ser simples e descomplicado viver. É incrível ver como essas pessoas têm energia e gosto pela vida que não vejo mais no mundo onde vivo.

Centro Histórico

Bumba-meu-boi

Bar no Centro Histórico

Afinando os tambores

 

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